WORDS Lorenzo Ottone
Moschino stuns with its AW18 collection by bringing punk and bondage countercultures onto the catwalk.
The brand – instead of proposing a modern take on the classic turtleneck-cropped trousers combo like many of its Italian fellows – evolves from its last collection made of flamboyant patterns on WWII and military references and jumps ahead in time blending 1950s rocker styles with punk inspirations.
Black is the maison’s favourite colour and PVC its dominant material. Marlon Brando iconic leather-clothed and squared-jaw greaser in On The Waterfront is once again adopted as a fashion source of inspiration. Brando’s boldly masculine look, though, is softened and turned more androgynous and erotic by Moschino through the abundant use of PVC masks, metal zips and studs. The brand blinks an eye to 1970s Vivienne Westwood by adopting surprisingly erotic and female cuts to rather traditional garments like tuxedos and biker jackets.
PVC is used with a bondage approach and sometimes even turns into a second skin – leaving only a mere space to eyes and mouth – on which clothes are just an adornment. The iconic punk DIY cut-up patterns – brought to fame by Sex Pistols’ debut album – are the main element of continuity with Moschino’s AW18 collection. Moschino men (and women too – with their devilish hairdos ) are merciless, self-conscious and owners of their own destiny, nonetheless, still human in their carnal sexuality and erotic desire.
What is questionable is the use, once again, of punk and greaser influences on catwalks. Is there actually any need to adopt such post-modernist approach on subcultures which have already long been exploited by the fashion world? Moschino's take on these elements, though, seems genuine and creative enough to justify the exquisite collection.