WORDS Conor Davage
Alex Mullins’ AW18 collection was a marrying of businesswear with his signature psychedelic patterns and subversion of traditional design. The end result was a showcase which was both formal and playful.
The main staples of the collection were pin-striped suits, camel corduroy trousers and puffer jackets. These represented the everyday man’s wardrobe. However, it wouldn’t be a Mullins show without some unique spin, distorting our ideas of menswear and putting reality under the microscope. This came in the form of rainbow balaclavas, velvet overcoats which buttoned at the back and cut-away shirts, exposing model’s bare skin beneath.
Some of the items on show were reminiscent of the previous collection by the designer. For SS18, models walked to catwalk wearing billowing silk sheets printed with disproportionate faces from perfume commercials – Mullins’ muse for the season. For AW18, his muse came from a familiar source and saw fractured images of faces plastered in repeated patterns onto selected garments including shirts, jacketed and trousers. These were attached in such a way as to give the impression that they were stuck to the items only temporarily, and would come loose as the model completed the circuit.