WORDS Conor Davage
Against a backdrop of red backlit scaffolding, unfinished half-plastered walls and wooden makeshift platforms which paved the route of the catwalk, anticipating guests were introduced to a theme which appeared to be paired-back and raw.
On show, however, was the opposite. The clothing heavily featured ostentatious patterns of check, tartan, florals, leopard print and geometric shapes. Materials like leather, suede, silk, shearling and knitwear sat amicably next to textured, intricate embroidery. The overarching theme appeared to be contrasting opulence.
The inspirations, according to the show notes, were just as diverse as the eclectic choices of patterns and materials. It “takes as its starting point the elegant modernism of the British male”. To this, they add “the tailors of Saville Row” and “pony kids of Ireland” – the former apparent by crisp tailoring, while the latter emerges through the nonchalant and oversized outerwear.
These exaggerated prints and textures were reeled in by the more modest and preppy styling, which saw many of the garments paired with v-neck sweaters, polo-neck jumpers, formal shirt and tie combinations and cropped, slim trousers. For AW18, McQueen cannot be summed up by one word or influence, and that is the point.