WORDS Kara Douglas
Belstaff’s AW17 show at LFWM marked the debut of Delphine Ninous' first collection since taking on the position as the brand’s Creative Director. The collection “Jolly Roger” followed in the footsteps of many other brands this season by merging menswear and womenswear. The show presented an array of opulent designs, paying homage to Belstaff’s Naval roots. Models were raised on platforms behind railings to mimic the deck of a boat, wearing a variation of traditional British-Navy inspired double breasted pea coats and duffle coats that were all cut from the same cool toned colour palette of soft grey’s, navy’s and greens.
“The formal Naval-inspired pieces are contrasted with a more rugged and free-spirited look appropriate to downtime on the docks,” said Ninous, referencing the smoothly executed polished teddy boy undercurrents that ran through the collection. Belstaff combined the pristine modern reproductions of their 1960’s Parkas with unbuttoned shirts layered over jersey t-shirts, jeans and chinos to create a relaxed “Dock life” essence within their ensembles. Both men and women’s trousers were belted at the waists to give a refined finish and the model’s clothes adorned emblems that featured Jolly Roger symbols, tying the whole line together as a unified collection. Each outfit was made up of a minimum of two to three layers, emphasising the casual outerwear focus of Ninous’s designs and the entire show encompassed a warm and traditional vintage nature that paid sentimental tribute to England’s militant heritage.