WORDS  Philip Livchitz

     After almost a decade of showing collections in cities such as Seoul, Milan and Singapore, the Korean designer, Kang Dong Jun, presented his second collection in London. His AW18 collection focused on the Chinese term that translates into ‘a spring dream’, or ‘an empty dream’ – a longing for something that may never be recaptured again. The designer skillfully transcended this idea.

     The collection employed modern Western tailoring combined with traditional Korean cuts. It featured dark velvets alongside wools and jacquards. The colours used were minimalistic black and white, thus creating opposing contrasts.

     True to its mixture of contemporary streetwear design with traditional tailoring, D.GNAK’s AW18 collection featured a combination of fine-cut suits with wide lapels accompanied with restructured waist-belts, symmetrically layered jacquards on top long overcoats and cropped trousers as well as a number of variations of casual varsity jackets. Embroidered skulls and crossbones alongside other memento mori elements featured heavily throughout the collection as well.

     The AW18 collection illustrated Kang Dong Jun’s versatility as a designer. He effortlessly combined modern interpretations of formal attire with streetwear, whilst remaining true to his Korean origin through utilising hanbok-like diagonal cuts in suits and coats.