WORDS Kara Douglas
Milan Fashion Week Men's brought us the latest AW17 designs by Andreas Melbosted for Diesel Black Gold alongside a debut capsule for women. Elegance toughened its edges as the collection pulled aspects of it’s established shadowy, hard-edged, heavy-leathered identity and intertwined it with an “Urban Ninja” vision for the collection. Melbostad took influence from the uniforms of Japanese Ninjas and incorporated it into the designs, adapting classical pieces with a free flowing and almost feminine approach to tailoring, in a bid to mould a softer silhouette for Diesel’s menswear. Such contrasts were highlighted in Melbosted’s newly reworked motorbike jackets, in which he applied tie belts and wrap around fittings, adding kimono like detailing and producing a desirable designer hybrids.
Melbosted paired such hybrids with draped trousers and structured shirts to further enhance the polished clean lines of the martial art inspired apparel, paying a suave yet subtle tribute to the intimidatingly cool stylings of the biker gangs of Japan. Each individual look incorporated a wash of blacks, whites and deep greys, with the occasional vibrancy of electric blue thrown in as an accent piece. These ashy tones complimented the plethora of tactile textures, intensifying the visual dynamics of each look. Shirts and blazers with Ninja snap closures were worn under knitwear and denim tunics and then layered a second time beneath nylon bombers, leather bikers and heavy coats with exaggerated lapels. Such combinations, when modelled alongside Diesel’s more traditional industrial Parkas, relaxed funnel necked hoodies, leathers and denim jeans, obtained a perfect balance between the brands signature pristine essence and the less restrained urban influence of the Ninja rooted outlines. Diesel Black Gold's “Urban Ninja” infusion created a contemporary collection that submerged the brand into the instantaneous street style phenomenon we see so highly sought after and embraced in this modern fashion era.