PHOTOGRAPHY Clara Delaporte
WORDS Laurie Trueman
Elitism is an element of the fashion industry that we have almost come to accept. However, London designer Joshua Kane has turned the tables and opened his door to the general public, and allocating tickets to the press and friends.
Held at the London Palladium, the collection was titled ‘Journey’ as Kane, who is inspired greatly by London, created a set on stage – a white structure, reminiscent of a 1910s underground tunnel, and a comment on London’s get go attitude at the time – new travel was emerging, factory workers were able to travel with the well heeled elite. Journeys were beginning, and London was becoming a cosmopolitan city. On the Joshua Kane stage, classical music begins to play with a small orchestra at the right side of the stage, and the story begins with the opening of what seemed like two distant lovers in three piece suits wanting to part but unable to.
The show reflected the rapidly changing city, as the looks were for the first time split equally between menswear and womenswear. The introduction of Joshua Kane's womenswear is an interesting one - Kane’s woman is self assured and empowered, sporting fantastic suit jackets and oversized aviator coats. With that said, she also appears unapologetically feminine, as she wears cherry-blossom pink cashmere and silk, a cloth designed for the Kane woman.
Individualism is at the core of Joshua Kane. Heavy-duty, Donegal and bouclé fabrics, custom-designed and woven in England, cut into faithful outerwear designed to withstand the very worst of the British winter. In traditional London style, male models support Baker Boy caps, a new addition to the Joshua Kane millinery range. Rebellious biker jackets are given a sophisticated makeover in luxe pony skin and shearling, and are made to be worn for the evening too.
Tailoring remains at the heart of the collection, and Joshua Kane houndstooth, his signature print is in check, only made more dapper by men with umbrellas, and Edwardian shoulders. It was Oscar Wilde and his flamboyancy meets bohemian modernity.
Joshua Kane makes a fantasy world, and it was a pleasure for his guests to step inside of it. Closing with the two lovers meeting again, and stepping into a ballet performance that was breathtaking. The show ended and the audience were given the chance to see just what Joshua Kane is all about as a brand: authentic, and accepting, but with an affinity for creating beautiful moments in time, and this was certainly one of them.