WORDS Conrad Bischoff
Jonathan Anderson has had quite the exciting past couple of weeks. First, there was the unveiling of his Spring/Summer 2017 campaign for J.W Anderson's women’s collection, featuring none other than a thoughtfully poised Chloe Sevigny. Then, his campaign for Loewe SS17 was released with 90’s star Amber Valetta, and a team consisting of Prada’s past go-to artists — Steven Klein behind the lens, Guido on hair, and Pat McGrath on makeup. And then there’s his most recent collaboration with photographer Alasdair McLellan which entails a line of posters and t-shirts, made available by “J.W. Anderson Workshops” in Shoreditch. They depict McLellan’s photographs of orange-tinged clouds at sunset and male nudes. (Between this and Raf Simons' Mapplethorpe collaboration, can we call the male-nude-tee a trend?)
Despite all this beautiful commotion, Anderson managed to create a collection for his namesake brand that elegantly showcased what he called “primitive tailoring," something that came through in his various crocheted pieces and stain glass patches on sweaters and jeans; resulting in something that felt like true English heritage at work. Tops throughout the collection were oversized, a recent staple of Anderson’s, with sleeves sometimes hanging well below the models’ hands or being thickly bunched above the wrist. Trousers were also allowed to slouch and either ended in cropped cuffs or elongated flares. One pair that was particularly eye catching was found in a scalelike, metallic material that seemed to slither behind models as they strode along.
Of course, while there were the more artistically admirable, less wearable garments, Anderson also supplied us with plenty to add to our AW17 wish lists. At the end of show were two fitted shearlings in light brown and steal-gray with long, overturned sleeves. Charming patch sweaters worn with thick neckerchiefs, and the fantastic jeans with the portion of a stain glass image so intelligently placed, were also definitely added to this list.