WORDS Laurie Trueman
Liam Hodges is a man of intelligent references, and for Autumn/Winter 2017 he found himself inspired by a line from a performance by poet Hector Aponysus: "Looking for a vocation in the decline of civilisation." Hodges seeks answers to the questions posed for 2017. How will the world respond to its uncertain future? Perhaps art and fashion are a good reconciliation for a fearful political landscape.
As written in the press release: "Style is always an attempt to find yourself and your people. Today the only maps that seem to make sense of our present reality come from dystopian fiction, illuminating it, the genre is rich with strong aesthetics." The clothes for this season were designed to be worn by individuals, not clones.
There was a deliberate focus on Hodges' signatures such as knit trousers, jumpers with artistic character, and of course, a segment of outerwear - padded salopette style trousers featuring removable pockets and puffa jackets designed to be worn with hoodies, some without collars. All of which were within a khaki colour palette, and of military inspiration.
With photo prints on the backs of jumpers referencing "Mary, the triple breasted sex worker" from the film Total Recall, and the Seditionaries' Westwood Tits tee, it was evident throughout of Hodges' will to inspire youth to be activists, and to not stand without opinion.
With collaborations for Hodges furthering this season, individuality was secured. Hodges has collaborated with Christy’s', the hatmakers that have been in business since 1773. Together they create a casual bucket hat style, combined with a white style bowler hat - almost like Kubrick's droogs in A Clockwork Orange.
The collection is interwoven with darker militant colours, and was fixed with many modern street wear pieces. Perhaps this is what a subculture is today, groups of people who wear really cool clothes with very subtle references to the past. A subculture is ultimately defined by groups of people, by friends, and what they consume together. That is a modern subculture. Hodges brings the question of meaning to the mind of his audience: "Who are we, if we are not defined by our choices, the things we consume, the people we surround ourselves with, and most importantly, by what we stand for?"