OLIVER SPENCER AW17: CONFIDENCE AND CLASS

 

WORDS Conrad Bischoff


     This season, Oliver Spencer’s boy is confident and classic, though with various modern twists. From those elements emerged a sportier, more mature style and something slightly more languid and romantic. The first of the pair was evident mainly by blazers and cropped pants in grays and blues, utility coats in grey and blue-green plaid, and thick turtlenecks paired with light, fitted, coats. In contrast to this were cardigans in an array of cuts, always only partially buttoned to show off a patterned top underneath. They came in greens, blues, Charlie Brown stripes, and one in the lightest pink, and were tailored with enough structure that one could definitely place them among their transitional jackets.

     The jackets of the collection were where one could see the modern innovation on classic cuts. Doubled-sided zippers were added to wool and velour jackets, with the tops and bottoms left unzipped to afford a casual certainty of chic. There was subtle pattern clashing — a red and white striped tee with grey checked pants, for instance — that helped to imbue certain pairings with nowness. This gave Spencer’s collection, though relatively tame amongst the creative circus of what looks to be most shows this London season, the appeal that its pieces were things that could easily be imagined in the wardrobes of many for years to come.