WORDS Conor Davage
As humans we are instinctively curious, this takes us to the farthest reaches of the world and pushes us into the unknown. It is a cyclical pattern in human development, conquering new territories in the name of exploration. To push the boundaries of our scientific, technical and social limits. At the Tourne De Transmission AW18 show, they question the fundamentals about our place in the world, seeking the true nature of the human spirit.
As with all of humanity’s unanswered questions, Tourne De Transmission turns to organised religion and selected St. George’s Church in central London as the backdrop of the recent collection. This offers a striking contrast between old world meets new, rooted in the past but looking to the future. The odour of dust which collects in these relic places of worship permeated the open-plan building as guests awaited the commencement of the showcase.
Tourne De Transmission note that “Discovery is always at the forefront of my mind when starting each collection – looking at new cultures and customs each season in order to learn how they interact with clothing. The clash of ideals between east and west and how the clothing is informed via social, industrial and often political division.” This season they turn their attention to the carnivals of south Haiti and the ever-evolving forms they take year on year.
For this collection, the brand focused on the shapes and silhouettes of the clothing in mostly monochrome, dark hues. The tailoring was cut with unusual, large fitting and was inspired by young Haitian boys wearing the suits of their fathers and other men in the community. Femininity is expressed throughout the collection where the fabrics are pleated and accessorised with brooches and masquerade, boasting impressive and intricate attention to detail.