WORDS Kara Douglas


     Amidst the current divided political state of the UK, a lack of transparency surrounding the critical issues of the country seems to be a prominent notion resting on the tips of everyone's tongues, including Graeme Gaughan, the current directer of Tourne de Transmission who showcased his politically driven SS18 collection “The Lies That Bind” as the brand opened LFWM this week at the BFC show-space, an industrial setting that complimented the modernist designs sublimely.

     Gaughan set out on his creative journey this season with the desire to craft a collection that emulates the prevalent rejection we as a society adopt when topical issues are not applicable to our own lives. A smoke screen is often applied to sensitive subjects within politics and the media, almost dehumanising social issues in an aid to deem their dire straits as acceptable. Tourne de Transmission adopted these concepts and wove them into their collection. Layers of transparentmaterials were affixed over trench coats, in an aim to mimic the distorted veneer we view world issues through. Classic pieces were deconstructed, their panels held together by industrial straps to represent the safety we seek in familiarity, amongst societal chaos we are apprehensive to obtain. This concept was portrayed through the exaggerated detailing of oversized zips and a new-take on styling of traditional silk scarfs, a juxtaposition of luxurious tradition and modernism.

     The collection was a wash of wonderfully soft whites and beiges, maintaining a delicate flow amongst the sharp accents of fluorescent orange that screamed for rebellion. The colour was splashed upon oversized bags, belts and straps and even dyed into a few selected models hairs. The tangy and deliciously vibrant shade acting as a poignant reminder that being both bold and unique will construct the strongest identities within fashion.

     Tourne de Transmission’s SS18 collection exhibited a selection of thought-led, provoking pieces that encouraged us to use our voices and reminded us to express our most important asset, our individualism, through the media of fashion. Being politically vociferous has never been cooler.