WORDS Otavio Schroeder
Yohji Yamamoto is known for being a style-conscious designer who envisages a unique artful fusion of modern oriental style that meets cutting-edge western world avant-garde.
For his AW17 collection we see signature cuts and drapes in formal attire for the modern day working class heroes, either presented in plain fabrics or with playful Illustrations drawn by the designer himself, ranging from brush strokes on the robe coats to skulls and psychedelic drawings, inspired by nature, animation and paying homage to the designer’s homeland, Japan. Although pursuing more dark and neutral tones with most looks styled completely monochrome, Yohji Yamamoto provides garments for both bourgeois and more flamboyant individuals.
Dramatic coats and capes hung on the models bodies; wide trousers and big popped-up collar shirts were the main elements. Waiscoats upon loose structured tailored jackets helped compose the overlays of asymmetric hems while biker boots broke with the fluidity of soft fabrics and gave a heavier feel of working hours to the designs - every piece containing a quality only expected from Yamamoto.
Elegant and vibrant color palettes can be seen in the AW17 catwalk in shades of red, green, purple and turquoise, while a cunning camouflage pattern makes a notable appearance.
Lastly, hair played as important of a role in the show as the clothes themselves, fiercely messy on men of all ages and working alongside the boldly cut aesthetic of the collection.